A House Where Food Experts Gather

Rain suits old Japanese houses. On the early summer afternoon when we first came across this house, it was pouring heavily. On days when the house soaks up plenty of moisture from the rain, it seems to swell ever so slightly. The scent of the tatami mats and wood is fresh and vibrant, and even now the house seems to speak to us, emanating a certain charm and fascination.

We had long been curious about the history of this house, and an architectural survey conducted several years ago revealed that it was built in 1931 by Mr. Kahei Nishimura, who established the Central Kyoto Food Market. Mr. Nishimura had acquired the land from Mr. Masatsune Osumi, who resided here from the Meiji through the Taisho periods. The Osumi family had, for generations, been responsible for preparing ceremonial meals within the Imperial Palace. Quite unintentionally, this location had become a gathering place for food experts connected to the Emperor and the very center of Kyoto's food culture.

When one speaks of tea as ceremony, one thinks of chanoyu and formal tea gatherings; but at Toka, our way of tea is our own. Tasting sencha made from rare, single-estate varieties is something new, and there is no established model to follow. We test the water temperature and the condition of the leaves as they shift with the seasons, taste and taste again, and explore different brewing methods, swinging between joy and dismay over each new nuance of flavor we discover. Through it all, the house serves as a powerful source of inspiration, giving us the courage to walk a path where no path exists.

To mark our 11th anniversary, we will be undertaking some renovations, beginning on Tuesday, August 25. We apologize for any inconvenience the work may cause. We will reopen on Wednesday, September 2, presenting a renewed Toka with its Gallery Nichinichi — a space that is easier to explore and even more worth the visit. We appreciate your continuing support.